Posts Tagged ‘colorado’
[LINK] “Has Aspen Become Too Popular for Its Own Good?”
Bloomberg’s Stephen Orr writes about the ways in which the mass popularity of Colorado mountain resort town Aspen has undermined many of the very qualities which made it popular in the first place. Count me as unsurprised: mass tourism inevitably undermines remote areas’ remoteness.
“What do you think of the place?” I asked the woman sitting next to me on the grandly modern outdoor staircase of the Aspen Art Museum on its opening day. I had noticed her, a stranger in a crowd of strangers, because of her quintessentially local look: an outdoorsy beauty with a clear, tan complexion, tousled sun-bleached hair, and a sensible if expensive layered outfit, one that would allow her to hike up nearby Ajax Mountain at a moment’s notice. “I love it,” she said as we listened to the angular melody of a dissonant musical performance in the foyer of the museum. “I tried to get some of my friends to come with me, but none of them would because of all the controversy—Aspen people hate new.”
They certainly appear to. In my ten years of visiting the town, I’ve often heard people grumble about the rapid pace of change in Aspen and the surrounding Roaring Fork Valley. They complain about the tide of new money that each year flows further and further downriver to towns like Basalt, Carbondale, El Jebel, and Glenwood Springs; the increasingly clogged traffic on Highway 82 (the only major road that connects the various valley communities); the swarms of private jets at the airport; the ever-climbing housing prices. Aspen, like other centers of wealth and power (the Hamptons, Napa Valley, Nantucket), fiercely resists development and does its best to stay small and quaint. Yet modern Aspen is a fairly recent invention and has always prided itself on being forward-looking.
To find the origins of the place Aspen is today, you need to go back only to the middle of the last century, when the once-tiny town of about 700 people began its greatest transformation. In the following decades, more and more people discovered this rarefied Shangri-la: The intellectuals arrived in the 1950s, the countercultural hippies in the 1960s, the ski bums in the 1970s, the celebrities in the 1980s, and the super-rich in the 1990s. Together they combined to create a sui generis culture, one defined as much by its growing wealth as by its improbability. But now, the appearance of this major new museum right in the middle of downtown is provoking a sort of identity crisis in the valley: Will Aspen’s very specialness also be its undoing?
Just 20 miles west of the Continental Divide and surrounded by high peaks on every side, Aspen’s dramatic landscape, deep winter snowfall, and isolation create one of those pockets that guidebooks grandly refer to as an “enclave.” But the settlement that first emerged in the 1880s as a silver ore boomtown was, by the 1940s when Chicago industrialists Walter and Elizabeth Paepcke first visited it, almost a ghost town. The German-American couple selected it as the setting for their Goethe Bicentennial Convocation and Music Festival, in 1949, a celebration of the humanist poet that was meant to rehabilitate Germany’s reputation in the United States after World War II. The three-week event featured an impressive lineup of intellectuals, among them Albert Schweitzer, Thornton Wilder, Stephen Spender, and Arthur Rubinstein. Concerts and lectures were held in a tented amphitheater designed by Eero Saarinen. Bauhaus artist/designer Herbert Bayer created an accompanying campus of 98 hotel rooms (now called the Aspen Meadows Resort) with modernist sculptures and early examples of sculptural earthworks. Those first seminars developed over the years into the influential Aspen Institute and the Aspen Music Festival and School and established the town as a high-culture retreat.